I know it is supposed to be genteel to prefer white meat chicken, but give me a leg or a thigh any day. I learned this recipe over thirty years ago from my late friend Kai Lofton. I love it as much now as I did then. The lemony flavor complements the juiciness of dark meat chicken, and the thyme adds a bit of crunch and loads of flavor. Because they are as good cold or at room temperature as they are hot, the thighs are good summer food, and you can even cut the meat off the bone and toss it in a salad for a fancy leftover dish. Those folks who eschew chicken skin will be pleased to know that this dish can be made with skinless chicken thighs, too, with only a little loss of taste.

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients:

8 skin-on chicken thighs
1/3 cup dried thyme
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil

Directions:

Rinse the chicken thighs and place in a shallow nonreactive bowl. To make a marinade, combine the thyme, lemon juice, and olive oil in a small bowl and stir to mix. Pour the marinade over the chicken thighs, and then turn the thighs to ensure that each one is well coated with the liquid and evenly covered with thyme. Cover with plastic wrap, place in the refrigerator, and allow to marinate for at least 2 hours or for up to 4 hours.

When you're ready to cook, prepare a fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill or the broiler. Oil the grill rack. Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade, draining well. Place them on the grill rack, or on a broiler pan and slip under the broiler. Grill or broil, turning once, for about 10 minutes on each side, or until the chicken is browned and the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced with a fork. Serve hot, at room temperature, or cold.